Only fools mistake femininity for weakness, and if there’s one thing Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra are not, it’s foolish. The married duo’s signature elements were on full display at New York Fashion Week on Thursday: the draped silk and jersey dresses, the saturated jewel tones, the watercolor-esque AirDye prints. But they also ventured outside their typical milieu by plying their Fall/Winter 2013 collection with brown alpaca “teddy bear” wrap coats, vine-knit capelet cardigans, and even a two-toned tailored trouser, cordovan in front, steel gray in the back—the sartorial equivalent of an iron fist in a velvet glove.

+ Costello Tagliapietra