Prophetik, Autumn/Winter 2012, Fall/Winter 2012, Jeff Garner, eco-fashion, sustainable fashion, green fashion, ethical fashion, sustainable style, London Fashion Week

COURTLY LOVE

It’s refreshing to see a collection that features options for both men and women. Garner uses all-natural dyes derived from plants grown on the gardens of his estate in Tennessee. Luxurious “peace” silks, chiffons, and hemp/silk hybrids are his mainstay, but he also developed a new hemp-wool plaid for the season.

For fall, Garner gravitated towards more contemporary draping techniques and fresher silhouettes.

For fall, Garner gravitated towards more contemporary draping techniques, such as a peplum treatment on the waist of a full-length gown. The newer silhouettes are nipped in at the hips with bow skirts, which are more on-trend—and therefore more wearable—than the voluminous gowns of past seasons. They bring to mind Courtney Love in her heyday, when she made “kinderwhore”-style dresses, paired with sturdy combat boots, the uniform of indie girls everywhere. This nod to the grunge scene will do well in the mainstream market, considering the upswell of nostalgia for the ’90s.

On the men, jodhpurs and knee-length frock coats in floral print and houndstooth checks. The Scottish Highlands were also accounted for, but with a twist: For one of the kilts, Garner eschewed traditional tartan for a quilt-and-denim treatment. Tweed riding jackets on the women—very Downton Abbey—also sit firmly within the trends seen at Fashion Week.

Garner also edited down the frills this season, styling the looks to appeal to today’s woman—if not today’s man—by reining in the costumey aspects of his designs. The finale dress featured a skirt made from ostrich feathers, gathered after the bird had naturally shed them. Following its London debut, the dress will be move Stateside, where it’ll be exhibited at the Smithsonian Institute in Washington D.C.

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