I don’t know if I can sum this up any better than Australian fashion journalist Patty Huntington did: “Move over Gareth Pugh – there’s a new freak in town.”
London is typically the experimental comma between the more sedate New York and Milan fashion weeks and the appetizer to what might await in Paris. So NOKI did not disappoint at the Fashion East show with a melange of thrift that appeared to be styled by Edward Scissorhands – don’t try this at home kids. Or wait, DO try this at home, seems to have been the message.
Jonathan “JJ” Hudson is a club kid cum music industry stylist who goes by the name NOKI (a play on IKON) and he states that House of Sustainability is not for sale. The designer wants people to copy his work which was comprised of second hand rock t-shirts and what appeared to be old dresses worn to somebody’s Homecoming Dance in the 80’s.
A more subdued representation of sustainable style was on display over at Estethica, the green section of the London Fashion Week Exhibition.
+ images via style.com
+ NOKI WARdeROBE
I love how from this one discussion you can see the difference between the people who live on every word that karl largerfeld and vogue throw at them and the people who see fashion as an art form who are open to suggestions. The truth is whether you like it or not, it is very important that we have people like noki in the industry to keep it saine. Fashion 'rebels' for me are the most exciting designers, they use fashion ( a global language) to tell everyone what is on thier mind! These designers are the ones who have the most impact, they may be underground but look at the high street and i'm sure you will see thier influence!
What a lot of CRAP you are all speaking. Dr NOKI has talent beyond his years, something many designers can only dream about and if it was not for there family names and financial help (and very little talent!) they would never have achieved the heights they claim. This designer has struggled against all odds to get his message across and at long last is being appreciated for his strong believes. Good on you Dr NOKI I'm behind you all the way.
Thank you ALL for your support. Debate is what i try to create in the creation of the NOKI-NHS, and it looks like it has done just that. Negativity is not a problem in the NHS studio, as it states in your blogs 10 years have passed, what were you doing 10 years ago. Can you imagine the negativity there was back then. In 98,It took a conceptual shop called the Pineal Eye and a stylist Anna Cockburn with David Simms to photograph Thee Giselle in a Noki piece to show the fashion haters, TOUGH noki is here to stay. Change is not for everyone, evolution has wonderfull ways of dealing with this, Museums exibit them!!!! Check out the new collection on www.vogue.com
Don't juge the designs unless u know a story behind them! read a bit about NOKI and WHY he works with recycling garment. A designer ALWAY has an idea behind his works, and if ur too BLIND too see it DO NOT COMMENT,
yeah thats the point noki work is 10 years old – pulling the same old trick, the same old 90s thing cutting up rock tshirts, standing up against consumerism when fits him– I always found the mask idea to be a rip from mid 90s margiela. Well its easier to destroy that create something new!!!
According to me "I feel making beautiful clothes is an art and it requires creativity and time, to make somebody look beautiful". Roli Singh
Noki's about 10 years older than Gareth Pugh and has been doing this stuff since I was a first year student, 9 years ago. Most probably longer. The reasons behind his work are to stand up against consumerism and big-name brands and its more of a political statement. His attitude is 'against the system' and you could say quite punk and I think this is the reason his collections look so raw and 'studenty'. I still find his work ugly/beautiful and thought provoking after all this time and it is this that sustains my interest in him. Gareth Pugh's great too but I'd say they are two designers that you'd be hard pressed to compare- they're totally different in style and content but both strong designers.
I think it´s worth the post about noki cause the propose is interesting and people opinion are important too, but i don´t agree it´s better than gareth pugh; i think noki´s fashion aesthetic is still growing up and it still looks like an fashion college student that is learning ...there are things to improve yet
Yes, Richie, everyone is entitled to comment and thank you for your opinions. I love the comments above, actually, because that is what sparks dialogue. Forgive me if it seemed I took them personally - not at all. 'I am just the messenger', was a reminder that we try to be objective here and cover everything, even if it may push the boundaries or challenge our aesthetic sense. Perhaps it was a poor choice of words. Designer Marc Jacobs seems to be happiest with "bad reviews" as I think he feels he has been able to challenge something... Marc Jacobs Dissappoints with a Freak Show Actually, NOK's reviews seem a bit better than Marc's this season...
Dear Jill, Why take these comments as 'personal attacks' ('I'm just the messenger here') ? I have no problem with outlandish. I simply felt that these designs were just not very good, and said so. It's my opinion. Some will agree with me. Others won't. Either way... I don't believe that our opinions require a defense. Wishing you a stylish day !
Why does everybody hate this? This is great, and ::gasp!:: surprisingly not bland! If you don't like this, read the http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/.
I also have some Halloween costumes to recycle.
What?! These designs are awesome! Read the text people - ‘House of Sustainability is not for sale’ so even if you normally wear clothes just as they are on the catwalk (which I doubt as most designs are tamed down around 90% before appearing on the high street) you can rest assured that you will never be forced to wear these beauties, ha ha! The designer aims to inspire us, the consumer, into reusing our own or other people's discarded items making them into something else. It doesn't have to be ugly unless you want it to be! I think the NOKI designs are wonderful. I love the juxtaposition of the relatively plain and everyday with the special, dressed up extravagance - beautiful! Good on ya NOKI! The future often looks strange until you get there - lol!
Daniel & Richie, Thanks for your comments. Ugly is in the eye of the beholder. While I tend to lean more toward an understated aesthetic myself - and did a whole project around that type of recycling fiftyRX3 - NOKI has his roots in clubbing and styling music performers, so that may lead his designs to be more costume than daily attire. Some things might seem outlandish, but if we never entertained other possibilities then I would be wearing a corset and way too many layers of fabric right now and you might be in a wig and heels. I am just the messenger. Jill Danyelle
Yeah... my first thought was: 'Who'd want to walk around in those clown suits !' i guess I'm not a fan of ostentatiousness for vainglorious displays' sake ! Talented designer ? Yes... better luck next time though. Richie
I'm all for sustainability and such, but this crap is just ugly. Why don't they recycle the ugly clothes into new things, and create new clothes made from sustainable materials so we can be environmentally friendly without having to pretend that wearing your old, ugly clothes is being "environmentally friendly".