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GREEN BUILDING 101: Energy & Atmosphere – Keeping cool and staying warm

by , 08/09/06

green building 101, sustainable design, green design, green architecture, energy efficiency, green insulation, LEED

The very root of what makes a home green is how effectively it responds to its surrounding environment. You could say that this has defined the primary material pursuit of mankind for all time – building better shelters to keep us warmer, cooler, and drier. Many of the native building techniques employed centuries ago are still reliable in similar climates today, and used as optimal models for environmentally conscious architects. However, since global acceptance of the air conditioner in the 1950s, the benefits of responding to a unique climate have been left by the side of the road.

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12 Responses to “GREEN BUILDING 101: Energy & Atmosphere – Keeping cool and staying warm”

  1. Thanks for doing this series. Informative stuff!

  2. Joe B Joe B says:

    Does anyone have any good links about the “pro/con sealing off structures debate” mentioned in the Make Your Building Air Tight section of this article? I live in the gulf-coast area, and to build a house that captures crosswinds seems slightly dangerous when hurricanes are commonplace.

  3. Steve Chase Steve Chase says:

    Great website.

    Nice to see good information. There are many new and improved materials. Sray on rigid foam is the best insulation and adds structural strength to your structure. Duck tape has a very short life. Foil back adhesive tape is the housing standard and last the life of your structure. Thank you for sharing ideas from other countries who have been fighting high energy prices much longer than the US.

  4. Todd Spraggins Todd Spraggins says:

    You are very correct in that air leakage is one of the leading causes for energy loss in the home, however, the air barrier used to rectify the problem is also a vapor barrier and if used wrong can do more damage than good. I highly reccomend that one reads up on the proper placement of vapor barriers and their permiability before just sealing off their house. Excelent advice on the topic can be found at http://www.buildingscience.com. The guys there understand both sides of the equation and are working on new techniques to improve both the health (air quality- no mold) and the energy efficiency. Their DOE/HUD funded research has been very helpful in making my own DIY improvements more efficeint.

    BTW, I love the top diagram, where did you get that from. I have a clearstory that uses the stack effect to cool our Texas home and I am always looking for sources to explain the theory. Thanks for the great series.

    -Todd

  5. Phila Hoopes Phila Hoopes says:

    Great information! As Peak Oil and rising energy costs make the need for green buildings steadily clearer, this kind of information becomes invaluable. Thank you!

    Phila Hoopes
    http://www.greensitesunited.com

  6. [...] Since we’ve recently discussed energy consumption and indoor air quality on Inhabitat, we figured now would be a great time to talk about insulation. Don’t run away! We realize that insulation is not a sexy subject matter. Nevertheless, insulation is crucial to your energy consumption, comfort, health, and ultimate happiness – so don’t flee just yet… [...]

  7. Christopher P. Christopher P. says:

    You might make note that your passive design illustration and text come from AUSTRALIA, so that the angles and dates quoted are effective only for those southern latitudes. Perhaps you could update with an available chart and illustration for the NORTHERN hemisphere, also?

  8. JS JS says:

    Todd, great point about vapor, and the greater potential for moisture related issues (i.e., mold) in tighter homes. I think more in terms of isolation than insulation. You want to definitely create a supertight seal, so you can control flows… So, definitely, building science goes way beyond simply adding insulation.

  9. One minor nit…it is not actually illegal to purchase air conditioners rated at less than 13 SEER. As of January 2006 manufacturers were required to make products that meet or exceed the 13 SEER requirement. Any product in the pipeline before then is perfectly acceptable to purchase. I know this because I own a heating and air conditinoing wholesaler. The sad fact of the matter is people in far north climates (such as myself in Wisconsin) got totally hosed by the legislation. The difference in cost between the old units and the new ones takes DECADES to pay off in energy savings in the cooler climates. An upgrade from 9 to 13 SEER will save you energy costs, no doubt about that. It is the rate of payoff that is important. When you only use your air conditioning three or four weeks out of the year…well, you get the drift. Those in the southern climates certainly benefit, but not in the far northern portions of the US.

  10. Gheda Gheda says:

    Thanks for not suggesting replacement of single paned windows. I work in preservation and it is a constant challenge to educate people that even with windows, infiltration is still the major source of heat loss.

  11. francis francis says:

    I have just been browsing over your web site and found it very interesting. I wasn’t quite sure if you actually implemented what you recommended or whether it is more about making people more aware of what can be achieved?

    I am really keen to immerse myself into fine tuning properties making them more energy efficient. Please do right back and let me know whether you deal with the actual construction side of things or whether it is more guidance advise?

    Thanks

    Francis

  12. m hayman m hayman says:

    This article is interesting, but I think that the passive solar heating diagram is for the southern hemisphere. Note that it says summer sun is Oct. to Feb. and that winter is from July to May. It also says to maximize glazing on the north side. For passive solar in the northern hemisphere you need to maximize glazing on the south side.

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